Category Archives: Rock

Holy Crap, Rock Climbing!

If you ignore the fact that rock climbing on the 2nd of January means that this winter is seriously lame, I was pretty psyched to go climbing today. The doc told me that it would be at least next spring before I was able to climb even a little, so I was pleasantly surprised to be able to lead a 5.8 (with two hangs). My fingers, arms, and shoulders are all pissed at me, but my thumb feels surprisingly good. I was just barely able to clip with my right hand, I could place a cam if I got pretty creative, and I avoided any pinching but I’m guessing it would not have gone well. Now that that’s out of the way, how about some damn snow!


Canada Roadtrip: Day 7

Squamish is a great place to be even when you’re climbing like shit. My shoulder is treating me alright, but that doesn’t change the fact that I’ve barely been on the rock for two months. Neither Jen or I have been climbing up here for several years, so we decided to basically go on a tour of the place and climb in as many different areas as we could. We got to climb some beautiful cracks, and I re-discovered just how terrible I am at slab climbing. I can’t wait to come back again next year when we’re both climbing strong and can get on something with teeth.

After a couple of pitches this morning, we drove back to North Van, got the bikes, and headed to Whistler. Now we’re re-kitting for biking.

A Bit More Climbing

In an effort to not show up at Squamish completely out of shape, Jen and I headed out for a quick after-work sesh in BCC. The shoulder felt pretty good and I was actually able to bear down on a couple crimps, which I have not been able to do for a couple months now. I really hope one more week is enough to get things completely healed so I can get after it up north.

Oh Yeah, Climbing

It’s been a long time since I’ve been on the rock. My shoulder is still pretty jacked, but Emma (the world’s most awesome massage therapist) said I could climb as long as I didn’t get on anything crimpy and didn’t make long reaches or lock-offs. So, Jen and I took our out-of-shape asses to Maple for a day of cobble tugging with Alex and Jess. We got in a half dozen pitches without messing up anything, and then I pretty much ended my shoulder’s happy day when I tossed my pack in the car. Shit that hurt.

Injured and Weak

I somehow managed to jack up my shoulder, Jen and I are both in terrible climbing shape, and the weather was supposed to suck pretty much everywhere. So, we decided to sleep in and then drive down to American Fork for a couple pitches of chill climbing. Chaco got a bigger workout than either of us, but it was still nice to get out and the temps were great.

Team Shitshow Hits The Road

So, after Jen hurt her foot playing hockey, we decided to load the car with climbing and biking gear in hopes that we could find something to do for the four-day weekend. We drove to Jackson where we couldn’t find a campsite and ended up bivying in a parking lot after exploding all the gear out of the car. The next morning we rode the JHMR bike park until it closed and then loaded everything in the car and drove the six hours to Ten Sleep. Due to some shitty mis-communication on my part, we were not able to meet up with our friends who were there and ended up doing another parking lot bivy, which sucked. The next morning we miraculously met up with our friends and climbed for two days (well, they climbed while I flailed). On the way back to SLC Jen and I also stopped at Green River to check out their new bike park. I wouldn’t drive there for this place alone, but it was a nice place to stretch the legs half-way through a drive.

Quickie in Hell

Wanting to be as lazy as possible without doing completely nothing, Jen and I decided to head up to Hellgate and do a couple pitches. It was nice and cool this far up the canyon, but there was still a bit of snow on the trail. Better than frying on south-facing LCC granite though.


There are some things that just never get old. Among them is a nice mellow hand crack in bullet granite. Today Jen and I took Ryan and Lisa up to the School Room for some crack lessons. We got on the classically fun Bushwack Crack, which turned out to be Lisa’s first crack climb. Ryan stepped up to lead it, and I found out afterward that it was something like his third trad lead ever and the first one that took place on an actual crack. Nice work man! As is standard, good times were had by all.

City Life

Not wanting to head south and cook in the heat or hang out in SLC for the oncoming storm, Jen and I fled North to Idaho to climb at City of Rocks and hope that the 10% chance of rain didn’t happen. Well, we got in three pitches on Saturday before 10% turned into 100% and shut us down. Either way, the climbing was good and the endless tent-bound games of Rummy were fun. Plus, we got to run into Sammy and Carl, and it’s always good to see friends.

After Work Quickie

Alex, Ceci, Price, JP and myself ran up into the canyon for a post-work, pre-poker session in frigid temps and gusting wind. But at least we got to climb something. Unfortunately, I forgot my camera for the first time this year so I have absolutely no photos so I just put up an old shot from Peru. And, Price won all of our money that night by hitting running 5s on the turn and river to make a set and stay alive after going all in against my AQ. Lucky bastard.