Lone Peak Weekend

It’s a rare occasion when I get to hike in front of Jesse. He has about a foot on me and uses every inch of his stride to make forward progress. But this Saturday he was seriously hung over, so I got to go in front. Well for about two hours of the day anyway. We hiked up to Lone Peak, climbed the Center Thumb and the Gold Wall, slept like rocks, got up and climbed the Lowe Route and Vertical Overhangs, and then hiked out. Weather always looked like it was going to turn to complete shit and somehow never did. My knees were jacked on the hike out again, but not nearly as bad as they were the last time. The weekend was a ton of Type-1 fun with a bit of Type-2 fun and just a sprinkle of Type-3 fun. Not a bad mix.

Strong

In search of cool temperatures, Andy and I headed to Maple and found our way to the Pipeline. I had never been here before, and I was stoked on it. The routes were pretty short by Maple standards, but they were still very pumpy and had harder cruxes than the average Maple line. Andy got what I believe is his first one-day send of a 12b, and I set my personal best get-shit-done crag day by redpointing seven pitches including an 11d, 12a, 12b, and a 12c. I guess this crag really fits my style, because I usually get my ass handed to me in Maple. About halfway through our sesh we were feeling pretty worn out, but Luke and Cerre showed up, crushed some hard shit really fast, and got us fired up again. Thanks you two for throwing some gasoline on the fire.

Running From the Sun

It’s hot as all hell in the valley right now, so Andy, Kipp, Ashley, and myself went back to American Fork and ended up at the Lower Membrane for the third time this season. It’s in the shade and there’s water about 10 feet from the base. Good times, good people, fun routes, and did I mention shady with water? We left relatively early due to encroaching heat and general lazyness. I thought we’d move to the upper wall and I’d have more chances to shoot other photos, but it wasn’t the case. As a result, I came home with over 200 frames of Andy on his two 5.12s for the day and not a single shot of anyone else. I feel a little weird to be honest.

Solo Mission

I did a piss poor job of lining up a partner for climbing this afternoon, and by the time I got my act together everyone had either called it a day or was already out climbing somewhere else. So I went to the pile and put up a TR on the 5.11d, so I could run a few solo laps and get a good pump. I’ve certainly had worse afternoons.

Twilight Buttress

I know. “The what buttress? Where the hell is that thing?” Well, it turns out that there’s a pretty damn cool hunk of rock a short way up the canyon below Big Willow Cirque. Andy and I got in three pitches after work, two of which were among the best I’ve climbed around the Wasatch. The rock is very City of Rocks style with solid granite and lots of patina features. I can’t believe I’ve never been here before.

Lone Peak Cirque

In an effort to do something that wasn’t cragging (read: I need to get in better shape), Ben and I decided to day trip to Lone Peak Cirque. We did the 5600ft approach in just under three hours without really trying too hard, and the temps were even a little chilly while we geared up. After a quick snack we went to the base of Center Thumb (II 5.9), scrambled a few feet up the first pitch to get off the snow, geared up, and started climbing. We did the five pitch route in three pitches by stretching out the 60m rope twice and throwing in a little simal climbing. Then we came down to the meadow for another snack, rested a bit, and hiked out. I was doing fine until we started the steep descent down Jacob’s Ladder, at which time it became clear that I’ve been slacking on the knee-stabilization exercises and stretches, and by the time we were half way down I was moving nearly as slow as I was on the way up. Damnit Riser! You lazy asshole! Big thanks to Ben for patiently waiting for me.

Baily Bailerson

Sometimes you bail off of something and never know if you made the right choice. Sometimes you bail and learn soon after that you definitely made the right choice. And other times (like today) you tuck tail and run and then find out that you were being an idiot. Ben and I came up to Hellgate to do Hell Raiser, a super fun five pitch 5.11. Well, we made it to the top of the third pitch, past the hardest climbing, and then hung out at the hanging belay in light rain for about 40 minutes trying to decide what to do. There was just a pitch of super fun looking 10b above and then some 5.8 above that. Clearly we were capable of doing the rest of the climbing. However, both Ben and I have had some seriously close encounters with lighting and get a little spooked when it comes to electrical storms in high, exposed places. Anyway, to make a long story short (OK, too late), we started rappelling after the rain picked up. When we reached the ground, the clouds moved on and we were under bluebird skies. Aahhhh! It was now hot as hell, so we moved up canyon to Albion Basin where we did a couple shady routes and ran into Eli on the way down while he was on his way up to get in his ski-every-month turns on Gunsite. If he makes it until October, it will be two years straight. Good on ya mate!

Back to Broad’s

Andy and I went up to Broad’s Fork so I could get pumped stupid and he could work his project. While there was no send today, he did figure out some much better beta, and I have no doubt that it’s getting done on his next day up there.

“Knowing is half the battle.”
– G.I. Joe

American Fork

Alex, Ceci, Rick, Jess, JP, Chris, and myself all ended up in American Fork today, which was nice for me because it offered lots of photo opportunities. Temps were pretty good, and a little rain on two occasions actually helped things stay nice and crisp (as long as the climb was steep enough to stay dry). I actually sent my hard route for the day, so I guess I’m getting back into shape. Finally!

Hot and Sweaty

Alex and I had a quick afternoon sesh in American Fork, but since it was about 2,000% and humid as all hell, we climbed pretty much like complete and total dogshit. Well, I did anyway.